By the time you usually bring home a brand-new kitten at eight to nine weeks old, they’ve already gone through a significant transition: being weaned from milk to solid foods. However, you may find yourself in the trenches of new kitten parenthood at an even earlier stage. If you are fostering a kitten or have found a newborn, you have likely been bottle-feeding them milk or watching their mother nurse.

In these cases, you may wonder, “When do kittens start eating food?” Weaning is usually a natural process, particularly if the Mom is involved. If you’re bottle-feeding, the process may be a bit trickier, and you may have to help lead it. Regardless of your situation, understanding what to expect can help you know when to have kibble and water on hand as a kitten gets ready to wean. Consider this your guide.

When do kittens start eating food and drinking water?

The weaning process involves going from the mother’s milk to kibble and water, which is what a kitten will eat and drink in some form for the rest of their life. If the mother cat is around, she’ll know when the time is right to start weaning, and it’s best not to interfere.

Generally, kittens will start to be ready to take small tastes of solid foods and water at around three to four weeks. The food and water are complimentary at this young age, so don’t worry too much if they play with it more than they eat it. They’re still getting most of their nutrition from Mom or a formula in a bottle.

What do you feed a 3-week-old kitten?

A 3-week-old kitten will get all of their nutrition from their mother’s milk or formula if they are being bottle-fed. Some kittens may be ready for solid food at three weeks. If the birth mother is around and nursing, steer clear of interfering with the process — Mom and babies will know when the time is right to begin weaning.

If you are bottle-feeding a kitten, discuss whether the introduction of solids would be a good idea. Waiting until the four-week mark may be best, based on the kitten’s readiness. Even if you do begin solids at three weeks, a kitten’s primary nutrition source will remain milk or formula.

What do you feed a 4-week-old kitten?

You’ll start by feeding the tiny cat what’s known as “gruel,” or moistened cat food, as well as some dry kibble, formulated for baby cats. A small-batch gruel recipe calls for one-half can of wet kitten food with one-quarter can of formula. Put half of a can of gruel and dry food in one dish in your kitten’s crate and a bowl of water in another dish.

Adult cats generally drink 50 to 60 milliliters of water per kilogram or 2.2 pounds of body weight. You can put that out for a kitten, but don’t be surprised if she doesn’t drink it all. The kitten should still have formula three times per day (about every eight hours), or she should be allowed to nurse as desired.

How do you introduce kittens to food?

Remember, weaning is a process, and it may be a little harder for a bottle-fed kitten to navigate without the instincts of their birth mother. No need for any kitten-parent guilt, though — you’re doing a ton to help lay a great nutritional foundation for the little one. Patience and monitoring will be essential as your kitten transitions to a new dietary source.

At four weeks, offer the gruel, dry food, and water, but don’t stress about how much the kitty’s eating. You do want the kitten to start getting used to the taste and texture, though. If you’re bottle-feeding, you can offer gruel off a spoon or from a tongue depressor if the kitten doesn’t seem to be eating from a dish.

At five weeks, swap baby cat kibble for kitten kibble and formula for water when making the gruel. If you were using a tongue depressor at four weeks of age, try to transition from it by slowly lowering it towards the dish of gruel to signify that’s where the food is going to be in the future. Keep half a can of kitten kibble in a dish for each kitten you are caring for, plus gruel or wet food. Set out a water bowl too.

Weeks five and six are transitional. You want to keep feeding kittens milk or formula plus kibble to mitigate any digestive issues. Slowly reduce the amount of formula while increasing the amount of kibble. By seven weeks, the kitten should be eating mainly dry food, and he should be fully weaned at eight weeks.

Final word on caring for and feeding newborn kittens

If you’re caring for an orphaned kitten, you may be confused about when you’re supposed to start feeding him solid food. It’s a slow process that takes about a month. Weaning may also look a little different for nursed kittens and bottle-fed cats. First, let the mother take the lead if you’re looking after a mama cat and her kittens. Interfering as she weans her kittens from nursing can make it more challenging for everyone.

Whether the kitten is eating from Mom or a bottle, you can start putting out gruel, dry food, and a water dish at four weeks. Let the kitten explore and don’t worry too much about how much they’re eating. Most of their nutrition and hydration are still coming from milk or formula. You’ll gradually reduce the amount of milk or formula the kitten gets while increasing solid foods, and eventually, your kitten will only eat cat food and will only drink water. As always, discuss any concerns with a vet.

Cats are unique, but they all have at least one trait in common. Kittens are born with their eyes shut. They start opening them at different times, usually from 2 to 10 days after birth. By 2 weeks old, a kitten’s eyes should be completely open.

When kittens open their eyes, they can start paring visual information with all the sounds, touches, and smells they’ve been experiencing. When you bring your young kitten home at around 8 or 9 weeks, they’ll be ready to explore and stare deep into your eyes. Kittens’ vision will still develop over the next couple of months, as will something else: eye color.

As you gaze back at your kitten, you might notice changes. When do kittens’ eyes change color, and is there ever a cause for concern? Here’s what vets have to say.

How long do kittens have blue eyes? What are the most common eye colors, and when will I see the changes?

Kittens are born with blue eyes, which is apparent when they open them. They may still be blue when you bring them home at 8 weeks old, but chances are they’ve already begun to transform into their adult color. A kitten’s eyes start to change between 3 and 8 weeks old. Common colors you may spot in your kitty’s eyes include:

• Brown
• Yellow
• Orange
• Green
• Amber

By 3 months old, your kitten’s eyes likely will reach their true color, though you may notice changes until their first birthday.

How can you tell what color a kitten’s eyes will be? Is it something only a vet can figure out?

It can be challenging for a typical pet parent to truly predict what color their kitten’s eyes will eventually be—you probably didn’t go to vet school, after all. However, simply looking at them and studying the current color will give you an idea.

The stroma and the epithelium, two layers of the iris, contain the pigmented cells that will ultimately transform your kitten’s eyes into a specific color. If there’s lots of pigment, expect orange or gold eyes. Kittens with less pigment will probably have green eyes, and those without pigment in each layer have blue eyes.

It’s likely not a cause for concern if your kitten always has blue eyes. Some breeds, like Siamese Cats, often keep their beautiful baby blues forever.

You won’t be able to tell what color a kitten’s eyes will be by looking at their biological mother or father because genetics has nothing to do with it. A cat’s fur color usually doesn’t either, but cats with white coats can be a notable exception. Some cats, particularly with white fur, have two different-colored eyes. Known scientifically as heterochromia iridis, it tends to occur when pigment doesn’t reach one eye (and thus keeps it blue) but does make its way to the other. This occurrence isn’t typically a concern either, but your vet can address any potential co-occurring conditions, such as the possibility the cat may have vision or hearing issues.

When should I be concerned about my kitten’s eye color?

It is normal for a kitten’s eyes to be all sorts of colors. It’s entirely possible you and your friend can adopt kittens from the same litter and notice they have different eye colors. Sometimes, though, a change in eye color can be a cause for concern.

Red or pink and swollen eyes are signs of conjunctivitis, an uncomfortable condition often caused by cat flu. It’s best to get this condition treated immediately. The longer you wait, the harder it is to help a kitten get back on the mend.

Once a kitten’s eyes have matured, they should not change colors again. If your adult cat’s eyes change, it’s best to get them checked out to ensure it’s not a sign of another health issue.

Kittens are born with blue eyes, which happens when layers in the iris don’t contain pigment. Some breeds, particularly Siamese cats, may keep their blue eyes into adulthood. More often than not, though, a kitten’s eyes will begin to change color once they’re around 3 weeks old. They usually stabilize around 2 months old, but some kittens don’t develop their permanent eye color until around their first birthday.

How old are kittens with blue eyes?

This answer isn’t straightforward. Brand-new kittens have blue eyes. At some point between 3 and 8 weeks old, most kittens’ eyes will begin changing color. This process is a normal part of development. Many cats have grown into their permanent eye color by 2 to 3 months of age, while others’ eyes will continue to change throughout the first year.

Some cats will maintain their blue eyes throughout their lives. As you can see, kitten — and cat — eye color milestones vary. For this reason, veterinarians don’t use eye color when estimating a feline’s age. Eye color may be a barometer of overall health, though. For example, red and swollen eyes could be a sign of infection.

Common cat eye colors include orange, green, yellow, and amber. Some cats will have two different-colored eyes. Though this occurrence usually isn’t a cause for concern, it’s always a good idea to talk to the vet. Whatever beautiful color your cat’s eyes end up being, be sure to speak with your vet if they change color after fully maturing or if you notice they are red and swollen.

It’s hard not to relish daily walks with your dog. You both get fresh air and much-needed exercise, and seeing your dog explore and discover the world is oh-so-fun. Afterward, you and your pup might even engage in a cozy snuggle session on the couch. What could be better?

Dogs also walk in small amounts at home, whether during a play session or a trip to the backyard, and paw health is essential to keep them comfortable and walking. If one or more of your dog’s paws gets injured or infected, mobility can be tricky, painful, and sometimes impossible. As a pet parent, the last thing you want is to see your fur baby in pain. Injuries might be inevitable, but understanding the causes, signs, and treatment for a dog paw infection can ensure your pet gets the proper care as soon as possible. After all, early detection and treatment can prevent the condition from getting worse.

Here’s what you need to know.

What causes a dog paw infection? You can help your pup avoid paw discomfort if you know what to look for

As much as we’d like to give you an easy answer, several factors can contribute to a paw infection. Here are a few common ones.

• Allergies leading to a secondary infection. Researchers say that allergic reactions to food could trigger a secondary bacterial or fungal infection.
• Bacteria or fungus. Bacteria or fungi can cause deep paw infections, swelling, and discharge. That includes yeast infections, too!
• Excessive licking. When a pup’s paws get irritated, they may try to self-soothe by licking. The opposite can happen, though. In truth, all that licking can exacerbate the issue and result in an infection.
• Parasites. Mange mites, soil nematodes, and hookworms can all cause paw infections.

What are the symptoms of a paw infection in dogs? Look out for these signs of an issue

Early detection can help get your dog on the mend faster. Look out for these symptoms of infections:

• Lesions
• Ulcers
• Swelling
• Redness
• Bruises
• Excessive paw licking
• Discharge or pus

When should my dog see a vet? Are dog paw infections something to worry about?

The treatment for each paw infection will depend on the underlying cause; a vet is the best person to diagnose that. They may need to examine or even biopsy the area, but this can usually be done in one visit. If you notice signs of an infection, it’s best to see the vet immediately to rule out any other potential issues and ensure your dog gets the best treatment for their specific condition.

How are dog paw infections treated? Can I treat the infection at home?

Treatment varies depending on the reason for the infection. You’ll probably be able to administer treatments at home, but you might need a veterinarian’s prescription to get the right medication.

Dog paw infection treatments include:

• Antibiotics or anti-fungal medication
• A warm-water soak with an antibiotic solution mixed in as applicable
• Ointment as prescribed by the vet

Most dogs with a paw infection will heal with the proper treatment.

What home remedies can I use to heal a dog paw infection?

As stated earlier, many prescription medications can be administered at home. A few natural home remedies for paw irritation can also help for some minor cases. These may be better for dogs that face chronic paw infections, since you will have already seen your vet and learned what remedies will be effective in their specific case.

Some natural remedies for dog paw infections include:

• Bathing. Washing the infected area with mild dog-friendly soap and warm water can keep the area clean. Be sure to rinse thoroughly, as leftover soap can exacerbate the issue.
• Epsom salt. Soaking your dog’s feet in Epsom salt for 5 to 10 minutes can soothe irritated skin and reduce inflammation.
• Apple cider vinegar. RelieveVet explains that apple cider vinegar has both antifungal and antibacterial properties. Mix 1 part apple cider vinegar with 2 parts water, then pour the mixture into a spray bottle to apply to your pup’s paws.
• Oatmeal. An oatmeal soak can be incredibly soothing to irritated paws. The easiest way to do this will be to grind oatmeal into a fine powder, then mix it with warm water.
• Coconut oil. This oil can be a great moisturizer for humans or dogs, but it also creates a soothing and protective barrier for their skin. As a bonus, it even repels parasites.

How can owners help prevent dog paw infections in the future?

It’s cliché, but true: Prevention is the best medicine. While you can’t protect your dog from everything, you can take steps to mitigate paw infection risk. Some of the best ways to protect your dog’s paws include:

• Booties. Wearing booties in the winter can protect your pet’s paw pads from the elements and salted roads, preventing excessive licking.
• Good hygiene. Wiping paws down with pet-safe wipes and regular baths can wash away irritants.
• Trim nails. Bacteria and parasites can latch onto overgrown nails and cause infections. Keep nails short.
• Checkups. Did you miss a spot? Inspect your pet’s paws regularly to ensure there isn’t any dirt or salt between them. Also, keep an eye out for open wounds, which can get infected if not covered and treated with ointment as your vet prescribes.

Seeing your pup in pain is never any fun, but paw infections can be easier to avoid and treat than you might think. A little knowledge can go a long way in keeping your dog happy and healthy, even if it means adjusting your routines. It’ll all be worth seeing your fur baby romping happily during playtime or jogging joyfully by your side. Besides, if you ever need them — your vet is there to help!

You bought your puppy the cutest food dish money can buy, and you thoroughly researched proper diet and nutrition. You confirmed with your vet that you were doing everything right to give your puppy the best, most nutritious start to life. Then, suddenly, your puppy’s not eating.

It can cause new puppy parents to panic — you love your fur baby, and appetite is often a sign of good health. Plus, your puppy needs food to grow and to have energy for walking and playing with you.

If your puppy is not eating much (or at all), there may be several causes. Here are the most common and what you can do to get your little one’s mealtimes back on track.

Does my puppy’s lack of appetite mean they are sick?

A lack of appetite or refusal to eat can be a sign of many canine illnesses, but a lack of appetite doesn’t always mean that your dog is sick. This is why it’s important to take a look at the big picture (or at your dog’s other symptoms) to figure out whether the cause of appetite changes is something to be concerned about. Sometimes, this will be obvious, but other times it might require the expertise of your trusted veterinarian.

Why is my puppy not eating? These are some of the most common reasons

Unfortunately, pups can’t tell us with words why they aren’t eating. However, experts such as veterinarians have observed a number of reasons for appetite loss over the years, including:

Your pup may not feel like eating when they’re stressed

When humans are stressed, we often change our eating habits, which sometimes means stress-eating. According to Preventative Vet, dogs may do the same, so be sure to think about what may be causing your dog to feel anxious. Some common puppy stressors include:

• Trouble adjusting to a new space. Moving to a new home can throw anyone for a loop, especially a dog that’s only a few weeks or months old. Your pup may need some extra patience and snuggles to get used to their new pad — and that’s OK!
• Another pet. Perhaps you already have a fur baby in the family. The other animal may be scary to your new little one … or vice versa!
• Changes in routine. If you’ve had your pet for a little while, you may think they’ve adjusted well. However, some changes, such as returning to the office after working at home may be stressful and be a reason why your puppy isn’t eating much.

Your dog might stop eating if you introduce a new food

Maybe your local pet shop didn’t have your pup’s usual brand, so you substituted it with another. Though the change may not seem like a big deal to you, your puppy may not like the taste or texture and reject the meal, particularly if you aren’t transitioning the food over a period of days. Transitioning your dog’s food can take up to two weeks when done correctly.

If your pup is ill or has parasites, they may not be interested in their meal

Stomach aches, infections, or parasites often cause a puppy to stop eating. Though getting a formal diagnosis from a vet is important, you can first check if your puppy has a fever or recently swallowed something not meant for dogs. You can offer a bland diet for one or two days as a reset, but don’t forget to visit your vet if things don’t get better.

When your pup is teething, they may be too sore for their usual food

Puppies — they’re just like toddlers. If your pup is teething, it may hurt to eat food. Luckily, this cause is temporary and will only be a problem for a little while.

What can I do if my puppy stops eating? Should I be concerned?

You can take several courses of action to help your little one get back to chowing down. Experts suggest:

Take your puppy to see a veterinarian if symptoms don’t improve

It’s important to rule out underlying causes like parasites, GI troubles, or infections. These problems are often treatable with medication or temporary dietary changes. However, they can get worse if left untreated. That’s why a vet visit can be so important. Plus,  your vet can give you tips on encouraging your dog to eat.

Sometimes, your puppy will only need some time to reset

If your puppy is having trouble adjusting, they may just need some time. Be patient and try to make them feel as comfortable as possible. A cozy crate, fun toys, and designated playtimes can help them feel at home. This is a great time to implement daily routines for potty breaks, meals, and walks — especially if your dog is new to your home.

Sometimes, all you need to do is warm the food up before serving

Puppies are finicky eaters — that’s just a fact — but warming up their meals, particularly if you are feeding them wet food, may help. Trial and error can help you figure out your pet’s preferences. But once you do, you’ll be so glad

Transition dog foods slowly to avoid tummy trouble and food aversions

If you need to change foods, experts suggest transitioning over the period of 10 days to help puppies adjust. On day one, use about 10% new food, 90% old food, and work your way up from there. As we mentioned, it can take up to several weeks to completely transition from one food to another.

Mix it up to keep things interesting for your hungry pooch

If your pet has trouble eating, you can try mixing in some table food, such as chicken broth or peanut butter. Ensure that the peanut butter does not have xylitol, which sugar-free versions often do. Trying a mix of canned and dry food instead of kibble may also help.

Make meals fun by finding different ways to give your dog their meal

Food shouldn’t be stressful for you or your puppy. Try making the experience more engaging by using food dispensers or puzzles. Even feeding kibble as a reward during obedience training can be a fun, interactive substitute.

Establish a routine to help everyone feel more secure

Like some people, puppies can thrive on routines. It helps them know what to expect, which may be particularly beneficial if your pup is stressed. Try designating a mealtime and feeding your puppy at the same time each day to help them pick up on the idea.

Limit treats so you don’t spoil their appetite

Training (and a pet’s overall cuteness) can cause pet parents to load up on rewarding their puppies with tasty treats. However, if your puppy isn’t eating, you may want to pull back on the treats.

Your pup will get on track with enough focus and consistency

Food helps puppies grow big and strong, and a good appetite is often a sign of good health. As a result, pet parents may panic if their pup suddenly stops eating as much (or at all). First, breathe. Sometimes, puppies stop eating because they are stressed and may pick up on your anxieties and get even more worked up. A vet can rule out any health conditions and provide you with guidance.

Figuring out your puppy’s stressors, transitioning foods slowly, and offering different foods also can help encourage eating. Try feeding your pup at the same time every day and avoid overdoing it with treats — you want your growing dog to have enough room for a well-balanced meal.

It’s hard not to love watching your puppy sleep. In fact, they might somehow manage to get cuter as they snooze. They look so content and peaceful, especially if they’re snuggled up to you. Though experts frequently recommend giving your pet their own sleep space, like a crate, it’s ultimately up to you. Regardless of where and when your puppy is sleeping, you want them to be comfortable and safe. If you notice your puppy breathing fast while sleeping, you may get worried. Should you be? It depends.

Here’s what experts want you to know about labored breathing during sleep and when to call a vet.

Different puppy sleeping patterns

Before we get into breathing patterns, it could help to have some knowledge of puppy sleeping patterns. They’re similar to ours, though puppies cycle through them more quickly than humans. A puppy may experience 20 sleep cycles nightly. Humans typically go through about four or five cycles. These are the phases.

1. Non-rapid eye movement (NREM). Though your dog’s heart rate and blood pressure will drop, your dog will wake easily if something startles them. This phase often lasts about 10 minutes.
2. Rapid eye movement (REM). Breathing increases during this phase of deep sleep, especially if your pup is dreaming (yes, dogs dream).

Your dog will run through these cycles. So, it’s possible your pup is simply only breathing fast because they’re in REM sleep — completely normal. There may be other reasons, too.

What is a healthy breathing rate? How can I find out how fast my pet is breathing?

Generally, a puppy’s breathing rate while resting should be between 10 and 35 breaths per minute. However, vets say some dogs have lower thresholds. It’s important to consult with your vet about what breathing rate is healthiest for your specific pup.

It’s actually best to evaluate your pet’s breathing rate while they are sleeping because exercise and play can elevate it. To calculate your pet’s sleep breathing rate:

• Set a timer for 30 seconds.
• Watch as your pet’s chest rises and falls. That’s a sign they are inhaling and exhaling.
• Count the breaths. One breath equals one rise and fall of your puppy’s chest.
• Repeat for 30 seconds.
• Multiply the number of breaths by 2. That’s your pet’s breathing rate.

If multiplication isn’t your jam, set the timer for 60 seconds and count the number of breaths for a full minute.

What does it mean if my puppy’s breathing rate is too high? Should I call a vet?

Several factors can trigger fast breathing during sleep. Your vet is your best resource when it comes to figuring out why your puppy’s breathing rate is elevated, but these are some common causes.

Exertion

Best-case scenario: Your pup is still cooling down from a rousing play session or exercise. Since dogs don’t sweat, they need to breathe rapidly to cool down and regulate their body temperature. If you took your puppy out for a game of fetch or went on a power walk together, they may still be breathing heavily as they nap it off.

Temperature

Again, dogs “sweat” by breathing quickly. If it’s a hot day or you have the heat on high, your pup may breathe quickly while napping. You don’t want your puppy to overheat, though. Heatstroke is dangerous for dogs, just like for humans. Turn down the heat or move your puppy to a cooler space, preferably inside, on a hot day. Make sure they have plenty of water.

Food poisoning

If your puppy got into something they should not have, like garlic or onions, they might breathe heavily. You’ll want to call poison control or your vet ASAP if you know your dog has eaten toxic food, as food poisoning can be fatal.

Trachea problems

The trachea is a dog’s windpipe. If it collapses or has too much pressure, your puppy may start breathing more heavily. A tracheal collapse can make it harder for air to make its way into your pup’s lungs. Other symptoms of this issue include a dry cough. This problem typically occurs in older dogs, but puppies can have issues too. Certain breeds, like chihuahuas, are more susceptible to tracheal collapses.

Heart issues

Heavy breathing can be a sign of heart disease. If your dog is diagnosed with ticker trouble, the vet may have you monitor their resting breathing rate more often.

Final thoughts on puppies breathing fast while sleeping

Naturally, it’s concerning to notice your puppy breathing fast while sleeping. First, you’ll want to determine if they are actually breathing quickly by calculating their breaths per minute. Simply count each breath, which is considered one inhale and exhale, for 30 or 60 seconds. If counting for 30 seconds, multiply the number of breaths by 2. Generally, anything over 30 to 35 breaths per minute is cause for concern.

Puppies may breathe rapidly when sleeping if they have recently played or exercised or are too hot. Fast breathing during rest periods can also be a sign of something more serious, such as food poisoning or heart disease. Make sure to keep your dog out of the heat and ensure they always have plenty of water. Call your vet if you notice fast breathing while sleeping. They can advise you on the next steps and evaluate your pup to determine if treatment is necessary.

You’ve probably heard guidance to eat home-cooked meals — for humans. They generally have less salt, and you know the ingredients in each. You’ve probably also heard of cutting down on processed food.

As dog people, we love our furry friends and want what’s best for them. Some foods, like blueberries and bananas, are safe to feed in moderation. However, should you be home cooking your dog’s food? After all, nothing appears more processed than a tiny piece of kibble that’s apparently processed — gasp! — with all the nutrition your pet needs.

Understandably, you may be concerned. However, should you go the homemade dog food route? Veterinarians say you can, but there are a ton of caveats. You may decide it’s not worth it. Here’s what vets want you to know about homemade dog food.

The pros and cons of homemade dog food

Often, you’ll hear vets give a hard “no” when discussing homemade dog food. However, there are vets who say that sometimes giving homemade dog food might be a good idea. We dug in to help pet parents weigh the benefits and drawbacks of making their dog’s food at home.

Pros of making your own dog food

Yes, there are benefits to feeding your dog homemade food.

• Customizable. Every pet is different. “Whether your pet is young or old, active or sedentary, healthy or facing health challenges, fresh pet food can be tailored to their unique nutritional requirements to support their overall well-being,” said Dr. Carolina Domingues, DVM, a veterinarian and diet expert and head of nutrition at Maven.Pet.
• You may actually please your picky eater. Have a dog that rivals a toddler for the world’s pickiest eater? Homemade dog food may do the trick. “Homemade diets are often highly palatable and readily accepted by even fussy dogs,” said Dr. Linda Simon, a veterinary surgeon at Pooch & Mutt. And Dr. Domingues agreed. “Fresh pet food often features a variety of textures and flavors that can appeal to even the pickiest of eaters, making mealtime a more enjoyable experience for your furry friend,” Dr. Domingues said.
• Homemade food is packed with phytonutrients. Human food has nutrients that may help your pet. “Fresh pet food contains a range of phytonutrients from fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs, which have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that can help support your pet’s health and vitality,” Dr. Domingues stated.

Cons of homemade dog food

As you might expect, homemade dog food isn’t a slam dunk.

• Are you a dog nutrition expert? If not, you’ll want to lean on one when meal planning for your pup. You may know your pet best, but be honest about your knowledge of nutrition science. “While formulating a complete and balanced homemade diet for pets can be rewarding, it is a complex task that requires careful consideration of the pet’s nutritional requirements,” Dr. Domingues commented. “Without the guidance of a qualified veterinary nutritionist, homemade diets may not meet a pet’s specific needs, leading to potential health issues in the long term.”
• It’s an incredibly time-consuming task. Preparing homemade food for your dog isn’t as simple as sharing your meal with your pet. “Preparing homemade pet food requires a significant time commitment, which may be challenging for busy pet parents,” Dr. Domingues stated. “Properly sourcing and preparing ingredients, as well as measuring and portioning meals, can take up a considerable amount of time each week,” she added. You may prefer to spend that time walking, playing with, and cuddling your pup.
• Homemade dog food can get expensive. Run some numbers. Depending on the commercial food you’re using, you may or may not get sticker shock. “While homemade diets can be less expensive than some high-end commercial pet foods, they can also be costly to prepare properly,” Dr. Domingues said. “High-quality ingredients, as well as necessary supplements, can be expensive, and working with a veterinary nutritionist to formulate the diet can also come with added costs.”
• Attention to detail is critical. “Preparing homemade pet food requires meticulous attention to detail, including selecting the right ingredients, following recipe steps precisely, and measuring and cooking ingredients accurately,” Dr. Domingues stated. “Inaccuracies can lead to imbalanced diets, potentially harming a pet’s health.”

Considerations before making homemade dog food

Several factors will go into ingredients and portion sizes.

“Owners must appreciate that a puppy needs a different diet to an adult, which needs a different diet to a senior,” Dr. Simon stated. “Similarly, nutritional needs change if a dog is pregnant, lactating, or has a medical disorder.”

Dr. Domingues agreed — one recipe will not fit all, and the cliché that “food is medicine” does not ring true here. “It is not a substitute for necessary medication when needed,” she said. “It’s also vital to prioritize preventive healthcare and good nutrition from early life stages to avoid future health issues and increase the likelihood of a long and healthy life for pets.”

Bottom line — should you make your dog’s food?

While there are some benefits to homemade dog food, it’s not the vets’ first recommendation.

“It is better to provide pets with a commercially balanced diet that follows AAFCO standards and is appropriate for their life stage, size, and species,” Dr. Domingues said.

Dr. Simon agreed.

“I don’t generally recommend homemade diets as they’re so easy to get wrong,” Dr. Simon stated. “Feeding a balanced, good quality dog food is my preferred option.”

The greyhound dog breed has a sweet but noble demeanor. These large-sized hounds are built for speed with a narrow, aerodynamic body perfect for running down prey. History traces these dogs back to ancient Egypt.

Today, the pups like to track down treats. However, the breed has been at the center of controversy — through no fault of their own. Because of their speed, they’ve been used as race dogs, a practice now illegal in most states in the U.S.

The truth is, they’re best suited as companion animals. The greyhound dog breed is known for being highly affectionate and even welcoming toward other pups in the home. The dogs don’t require much grooming. Though greyhounds are sweet dogs, they aren’t for everyone. You’ll want to read up on the breed and what these dogs need before welcoming one into your home (something that is true for any pet). Here’s what to know about the greyhound (from ancient Egypt) to help you figure out if one is right for your home.

The history of the greyhound dog

The greyhound dog breed is one of the world’s oldest. Archaeologists have noted remnants of greyhounds that were 5,000 to 8,000 years old. The breed likely belonged to pharaohs and detected, chased, and captured wildlife in the Egyptian desserts before bringing it to their royal masters. Ancient Greeks and Romans also likely used the elegant hounds.

Since their days hunting for higher-ups of ancient empires, greyhounds have continued to remain a favorite among nobility and royalty. King James I and Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband, owned greyhounds. The breed also seemed to be a favorite of literary royalty, holding the distinction as the first pups mentioned in English literature. William Shakespeare specifically references the dogs.

Though the greyhound’s origin is Egypt, the version of the breed we know and love today was developed over the 18th and 19th centuries in England. The American Kennel Club (AKC) recognized the breed in 1885. The breed began racing in the 1920s — a practice not only frowned on, but generally illegal these days.

A complete guide to the greyhound dog

The greyhound’s aerodynamic build and sweet personality make it a popular family pet. Here’s what to know if you’re expecting (or considering) a greyhound.

Physical characteristics

According to the AKC, greyhounds must meet certain standards to be considered purebred, including:

• Height: 28 to 30 inches (male), 27 to 28 inches (female) 
• Weight: 65 to 70 pounds (male), 60 to 65 pounds (female)
• Coat: Short and smooth, little grooming required

Common health conditions

Greyhounds generally live about 10 to 13 years and can lead happy, healthy lives. However, the breed is prone to specific health conditions. As a pet parent, you’ll want to be aware of these potential issues so you can get your pet care. In some situations, the quicker you can get your dog help, the better the outcome.

Common greyhound dog health issues include:

• Dental disease
• Pannus or chronic superficial keratitis (inflammation of the cornea)
• Bloat, or gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV)
• Hip dysplasia
• Osteosacroma (bone cancer)
• Hypothyroidism

You can’t protect your pet from everything. However, there are some simple, practical ways to reduce your greyhound’s risk for conditions, including:

• Daily teeth brushing
• Attending annual vet checkups (they may be more frequent based on your pet’s age and health)
• Feeding your dog a diet consisting of at least 90% dog food
• Limiting treats
• Giving them plenty of water
• Walking them frequently — greyhounds need tons of physical activity to stay happy and healthy
• Keeping toxic food and plants out of reach
• Calling your vet if you notice your dog acting more lethargic, more or less hungry, has GI issues, or anything else that seems troubling
• Administering monthly preventatives
• Bathing your dog regularly
• Clipping nails regularly (broken or ingrown nails aren’t fatal but are painful)

Social traits

Greyhounds are known for being very affectionate. Expect a wagging tail and tons of kisses when you return home — even if it’s only been 5 minutes. Though they’ll miss you, greyhounds have an independent streak — they’re OK to be left alone for a few hours, making them a good fit for working families. They require physical stimulation and have a good bit of energy, so be sure you can walk them frequently or bring in a sitter or professional walker who can take them out during the day.

Greyhounds are usually good with other dogs. However, most greyhounds don’t do well with cats — their small stature brings out the predator in the greyhound.

Greyhounds are friendly, good-looking pups. They can do well in a variety of homes, including families with other dogs. This breed doesn’t usually do well with cats, and they can be hit or miss with young children. A reputable breeder or rescue can give you insights into the specific greyhound you would like to make a new family member. It’s so important to research other breeds and ensure you have the best fit for your home and lifestyle. You want your new dog to be a forever friend.

Remember, breed affects the dog to some extent, but some of a pet’s personality relies on nurture. The most important factor is that you, the dog, and anyone else in your household (human or furry) mesh well with the dog.

English setters have a refined nickname: “The gentlemen of the dog world.” However, these beautiful pups aren’t haughty in the slightest. They’re known and loved for their laid-back, amiable charm and happy demeanor.

This dog breed has a reputation as a loyal companion. The athleticism of English setters is impressive and opens the door for many fun adventures, like building homemade obstacle courses in the backyard or long walks.

The English setter’s good looks require a bit of maintenance, though. Despite the friendly personalities, this breed may not be the best fit for every family. Considering your lifestyle and preferences before welcoming a dog into your home is essential to ensure the fit is forever. Should you make an English setter your new family pet? Here’s what to know about this handsome breed.

History of English setters

The English setter isn’t an ancient breed, but the pups have been around for about four or five centuries. The English setter is likely a product of breeding between the Spanish pointer, Springer spaniel, and large water spaniel. As you can probably tell from the name, the breed originated in England. The dogs covered different terrains than other setters, like Irish, hence the distinction.

Speaking of names, English setters were bred and trained to “set” during hunts. When a dog sets, they lie down to let the hunter know the game is near. The hunter casts a wide net over the dog and game, usually birds in the English setter’s case. This process preceded the invention of guns. When hunters started using those, English setters took on new roles by standing upright to “point” or alert a hunter to nearby birds.

Edward Laverack of England and R. LL Llewellyn of Wales are primarily credited for developing the modern setter. Laverack developed a show dog, while Llewellyn bred smaller setters to hunt. The English setter arrived on American shores in the 19th century, where C.N. Myers, a breeder with Blue Bar Kennels in Pennsylvania, spearheaded efforts to develop the English setter across the pond.

The English setter was a pioneering breed with the American Kennel Club (AKC), becoming one of the first nine breeds registered with the fledgling organization in 1878.

Your complete guide to the English setter

English setters are a total package, from good looks to charming personalities. Here’s what to know about the breed, from physical traits and health problems to how well they get along with small kids and other pets.

Physical characteristics

To meet AKC breed standards, a purebred English setter must have specific characteristics, including:

Height: 25 to 27 inches (male), 23 to 25 inches (female)

Weight: 65 to 80 pounds (male), 45 to 55 pounds (female)

Coat: Long, silky, and needs frequent grooming. Some acceptable colors include blue belton, lemon belton, and white.

Health issues

English setters have an average life span of 12 years; some will live longer or shorter lives. They’re happy dogs and make for loving, memorable companions. Thinking about a pet getting sick isn’t fun. However, knowing health issues common with breeds can allow you to get your pet care, potentially improving the outcome.

The good news? English setters are a reasonably healthy bunch. Some common health concerns include:

• Cancer, specifically hemangiosarcoma (usually affects body parts with high blood volume, like the heart and spleen) and lymphoma (starts in the lymph system)
• Hip dysplasia
• Epilepsy and seizures
• Allergies
• Hearing problems
• Autoimmune thyroiditis, or a thyroid condition in which the immune system goes after the thyroid gland — dogs with this disease do not always show symptoms

Though you can’t protect your dog from everything — and some issues may be hereditary, such as seizures — you can take steps to keep your English setter healthy, including:

• Attending regular vet checkups, usually once to twice yearly, depending on your setter’s age and health
• Administering monthly preventatives
• Remaining up to date on vaccines
• Feeding your pet a high-quality dog food
• Limiting treats to 10% of daily caloric intake
• Ensuring your English setter gets plenty of exercise
• Keeping up with grooming, including weekly brushing with a soft-bristled brush
• Brushing teeth to ward off dental disease
• Keeping nails clipped
• Cleaning ears regularly, including after baths or swims
• Reaching out to your vet if you notice changes in your dog, such as a decrease in energy or appetite

Social characteristics

English setters are often lauded for their outward appearances. However, the pet proves that what’s on the inside counts, too. In fact, their personalities are what have endeared them to families for centuries. English setters are highly affectionate pets. Though males can weigh up to 80 pounds, they’re keen to give plenty of kisses and possibly attempt to sit in your lap. The breed is often a good fit for various families, including those with small children, cats, and other dogs (usually). The dogs are generally pretty playful and open to strangers. They bark to alert but aren’t “yappy” dogs. This breed is highly intelligent and eager to please. Together, these traits make English setters pretty simple to train. All dogs benefit from training.

Loyal and loving pets with good looks to boot, English setters generally get along with other pets, including cats and small children. They’re also highly adaptable and willing to accept strangers. Though English setters will go with the flow, they are still a responsibility. The dogs need significant grooming to keep their coats in tiptop shape and thrive in homes that can give them the love and exercise they crave. It’s also important to remember every dog is different. Some English setters may not play well with other dogs or small children. It’s best to get insights from a shelter or reputable breeder and ensure all family members (other dogs included) meet any pup you’d like to bring home.

We don’t typically think of cats as breeds. With canine companions, there is a ton of information on different breeds, including common physical and social traits.

However, felines also have separate breeds beyond just commonly known ones, like Maine Coons and Siamese cats. One you may not have heard of is the snowshoe cat. There’s likely a reason you’ve never heard of this cat, because the breed is rare.

The name sounds adorable, evoking thoughts of cozy winter nights snuggled on the couch with a feline friend at your feet. Of course, you don’t want to judge a cat breed by its name. Knowing what to expect from a snowshoe cat can help you determine if the breed is the best for your home, family, and lifestyle. Here’s what to know about these cats, including their sweet appearance and loving personalities.

Physical traits of a snowshoe cat

The snowshoe cat was developed to achieve a specific look. A quick history lesson: In the 1960s, Dorothy Hinds-Daugherty, a Siamese cat breeder from Philadelphia, was pleasantly surprised when she produced a litter that included three kittens with white feet. They looked like they had socks. The color impressed her because she decided it would be great if that trait became more common. She enlisted the help of another breeder, which resulted in them cross-breeding Siamese cats and American shorthairs.

Snowshoes have evolved recently, and the preferred parent breeds are now stockier Siamese and Oriental shorthairs. The breed is rare because it requires a rigid, preferred pattern resulting from recessive genes. The socks can be so challenging to achieve that many of the world’s top cat organizations don’t recognize it.

What does a snowshoe cat look like?

Snowshoe cats are adorable felines. Here are some common physical traits:

• Weight: 9-12 pounds (male), 7-10 pounds (female)
• Eye color: Blue
• Coat length and texture: Short, smooth, single coat
• Coat color: Born all white, adult snowshoe cats are white, chocolate, blue, black, tan, or brown. Snow snowshoe cats may have an eye mask. Coats often darken with age. The white paws or “socks” are the breed’s signature look.
• Shedding: Moderate
• Grooming needs: Low
• Body: Sturdy and muscular bodies, full faces, and long ears with rounded tips

What are some common health problems with snowshoe cats?

Snowshoe cats can live long, healthy lives. The breed isn’t prone to unique health conditions and can live 15 to 20 years. Kidney and heart diseases — common among most cat breeds — can affect snowshoe cats.

Though these kitties have a reputation for being hardy, pet parents can still take some measures to keep their feline friends healthy, including:

• Keeping them indoors
• Microchipping them to ensure a reunion should the cat get out
• Staying up to date on vaccines and monthly preventatives
• Visiting the veterinarian on a regular basis, typically once or twice per year
• Leaving out plenty of water
• Frequent physical activity, such as playing with wand toys
• Plenty of mental stimulation like puzzle toys and cuddles
• Feeding a high-quality diet consisting mostly of cat food
• Keeping toxic items like specific foods and plants out of reach
• Cat-proofing your home, including the holiday tree

Social characteristics

Looks aren’t everything. Here’s what to know about the snowshoe cat’s personality.

What are the common personality traits of a snowshoe cat?

Even cats of the same breed and litter will have diverse personality traits. Your best bet is to speak with a reputable breeder or shelter for insights on the snowshoe cat you want to welcome into your family. However, snowshoe cats are generally kind, loving, and social kitties.

That may surprise people who think felines are aloof and anti-social, but it tends to be true of snowshoe kitties. The cats exhibit traits we typically associate with dogs — greeting their humans at the door, hopping in your lap for all the snuggles, and preferring to be around people. The cats are also playful. Wand toys and crinkle balls will keep them happy and engaged. 

What is the best type of home for the snowshoe cat?

Snowshoe cats do best in homes with families that want to love on a kitty. If you’re looking for a cat that goes up to a closet upon entering your home for the first time and comes out only to eat, a snowshoe cat probably isn’t the best cat for you. However, if you want a cat with a personality similar to a dog, look no further.

The snowshoe cat is usually very good with young children. Still, you’ll want to monitor interactions between the two. Even kind cats may react negatively to tiny hands pulling on their ears, even if the wobbly toddler doesn’t know any better.

Snowshoe cats are a fairly new and relatively rare breed. It’s hard to achieve the necessary look, so the breed isn’t recognized by major cat organizations. We’re still learning more about the breed, including personality and health. Still, it seems that the breed is usually very healthy and can live about two decades — great news for families looking for a long-term commitment. The cats are typically friendly, playful, and low maintenance when it comes to grooming. Remember, the breed is only one factor when choosing an animal. Each pet is different, so you’ll want to speak with a reputable breeder or rescue about the specific animal you’re looking at. A meet-and-greet can ensure everyone meshes well.

Polydactyl cats: The term sounds exotic — almost like it should be used to describe an amphibian. The unusual term is fitting for something of an odd condition.

A polydactyl cat has a congenital physical anomaly. In layperson’s terms, this means that a cat is born with the condition. They can’t suddenly develop the condition.

The condition causes the cat to have more toes than usual on one or more of their feet. Cats usually have 18 digits or toes: Five on each of the front two paws and four on each of the back two. A cat typically inherits the trait. You may be alarmed if you have a polydactyl cat or notice a kitten with too many toes. Are they in danger? Is this condition common? Here’s what to know about the polydactyl cat, including their health outlook.

Are polydactyl cats rare?

A polydactyl cat’s condition may be considered an anomaly, but they’re not rare, particularly in certain areas of the world: Western England, Wales, Canada, and the Eastern U.S. It’s unclear how many polydactyl cats exist, though the condition is genetic. If a parent has the condition, a kitten could, too. There are three types of polydactyl cats:

• Preaxial: This type is the most common and means that a cat has extra toes that may resemble a thumb.
• Postaxial. The cat has extra toes on the outside of the paw (the pinky side).
• Mesoaxial. This type of polydactyl cat is the least common and occurs when a cat has extra toes in the middle of the paw.

What breeds of cats are polydactyl?

Any cat breed can be polydactyl, but Maine Coon cats may have greater odds of having more digits. Not all cats with parents that have the gene will become polydactyl. The parents also don’t have to have the condition to create a polydactyl kitty. However, the gene exists somewhere in the kitten’s lineage, and it’s far more likely to occur in cats with at least one polydactyl parent.

What causes polydactyl cats?

Polydactyl cats have a condition caused by a dominant gene mutation. A gene mutation affects a cat’s DNA, creating something different — and extra toes are certainly different.

Typically, pet parents will see extra toes on the front paws, and it’s not typical for every foot to have additional digits. You might see as many as nine toes on a paw. The record for total toes is 28, according to the Guinness Book of World Records. The mark is held by Jake, a male ginger tabby cat who lived in Bonfield, Ontario, Canada, with proud parents Michelle and Paul Contant. His vet counted all 28 digits in 2002.

What is the life expectancy of a polydactyl cat?

Polydactyl cats don’t have a different life span than cats with the usual number of toes. On average, both types live 15 years if they stay indoors, though it varies by breed and other health conditions.

The biggest issue fur parents of polydactyl cats will likely have is trimming nails. Cats usually don’t like nails trimmed, to begin with, so the faster a person can go, the better. You might consider pawning it off on a veterinarian or groomer (though cats aren’t always a fan of either of those, let alone the car, bus, or train rides to get there).

If you count more than 18 digits on your feline friend, have your vet take a look. Even though polydactyl cats can live healthy lives, radial hypoplasia is another reason a cat may have extra toes. It is also inherited. These toes present right next to the normal toes and cause large, flat feet. Cats with this condition can also live every day, happy lives but may be a bit shaky. A cat parent and veterinarian will want to monitor it throughout a kitty’s life.

You can help your polydactyl cat live a happy life by:

• Attending regular vet checkups
• Staying up to date on vaccinations
• Administering monthly preventatives
• Leaving out plenty of water
• Feeding them a healthy diet of mostly cat food
• Keeping toxic food, plants, and household items out of reach
• Having your cat stay indoors, where they are safe from cars and predators
• Providing opportunities for physical and mental enrichment, like cat trees, wand toys, and crinkle balls
• Grinning and bearing it as you clip their nails (or paying someone else to do the dirty work)

Polydactyl cats have extra toes. Though the condition may seem strange, it’s not that uncommon. It’s an inherited gene mutation, so cats with polydactyl parents are likelier to have the condition. Don’t worry if you notice too many toes on your cat. Polydactyl cats can live normal, healthy lives and don’t have a shorter life span than their non-polydactyl peers.

Have your vet check out their feet to make sure everything checks out and that it’s not a flag of another condition. Otherwise, treat your kitty the way you would any other. Provide plenty of love, food, water, and enrichment. Cutting toenails will be slightly less fun (or more if you enjoy being hissed at), but you can always pass the buck — that’s what groomers and your neighborhood veterinarians are for.