Keeping your pH consistent is a major part of a thriving aquarium. Too high or too low, and your whole ecosystem will be thrown out of whack. Generally speaking, the acceptable pH levels for an aquarium range from 6.8 to 7.8, with 7.0 being the neutral point. (Keep in mind your tank’s acidic or alkaline levels will go up and down pretty regularly, too.) What causes high pH in an aquarium? Here’s the key information you need to know.

What is pH in Aquariums?

If you barely remember high school chemistry, you might be a little unclear about what pH even means and why it matters to your fish. First, know that we’re actually looking at a measurement, which indicates the level of acidity or alkalinity of a liquid. Lower numbers mean more acidic and higher numbers, less.

As mentioned, the midpoint is 7.0, which is the pH of pure water. But that’s not to say if you open a faucet, you’ll get perfect 7-level water. It’s a good idea to check your source with a testing kit so you know where you’re starting from and then you can use a few tips and tricks to bring it up or down as needed.

Common causes of pH level increase

Stones and rocks

Certain stones and rocks can raise your pH levels. Calcium-rich materials like limestone dissolve and mix into the water, thus increasing the pH. On the flip side, consider adding shells or crushed stone to the bottom of your aquarium if you need to increase your pH levels.

Aquatic plants

If you have aquatic plants, they can trap carbon dioxide and other materials like nitrates, which hike up pH levels. Keep an eye out for excess algae and slime on glass, decorations, and rocks. This usually means the pH level is too high.

An ineffective filter

An ineffective or old filter can be damaging in various ways, but most of all, it makes the water’s pH disagreeable to fish. Fish waste and other broken-down organic material like leftover food keep pH levels elevated.

Tap water

Tap water contains alkaline compounds and metals. This is why most experts will recommend against using regular, unconditioned tap water in your aquariums.

Aerating your tank

Aerating your tank allows carbon dioxide to escape, consequently increasing pH levels. Consider an air stone, like this sleek, cylindrical one from Hygger, if you need to slightly raise your water’s alkalinity. This stone is available in 4-inch or 2-inch diameters and weighs only 15.2 ounces (430 grams). When your pH level is too low, turn off or remove the air stone to increase pH levels again.

Baking soda

A common way to increase pH levels easily is by dissolving baking soda in some water and then pouring it into your tank. This alkaline mixture should be incorporated regularly for the best results. However, be cautious about adding too much baking soda at once. Let your fish adapt to the pH level increase before adding any more baking soda.

How to decrease the pH levels in your aquarium

Replace your filter and clean your tank

Try replacing your old filter and the pH level might go back to optimum levels. Additionally, cleaning your tank regularly ensures that your aquarium is completely waste-free, as many water filters don’t successfully eliminate all fish waste.

Add driftwood or peat moss

Driftwood is an aesthetically pleasing decoration choice for fish tanks, but too much can make your pH levels drop. Granted, this may be helpful if your water’s pH is too high. Compounds called tannins actually soften hard, alkaline water.

You can also add peat moss to your tank, but note that this might give your water a yellow-brown tint. Similar to driftwood, peat moss contains tannins and other acids that counter high pH levels. Note that whenever you’re considering using driftwood, peat moss, or other decorative elements, make sure it’s made for aquarium use and comes from a reputable source.

Invest in a reverse osmosis machine

A costlier option is a reverse osmosis (RO) machine, which can significantly improve pH water levels and keep them steady. Reverse osmosis works by carefully filtering water and keeping contaminants out, including metals. These devices have filters you’ll need to replace every now and then, but it’s a worthy investment for serious fish tank enthusiasts.

This heavy-duty reverse osmosis system from LiquaGen has a manual flush valve that prevents leaks and makes flushing maintenance quick. It’s compatible with both saltwater and freshwater tanks with fish, plants, and coral. If you’re a first-time RO buyer, this is the best choice, thanks to simple installation and handling instructions.

What causes a high pH in aquariums differs between water type, fish, decorations, and more. Fortunately, there are several ways you can decrease or increase pH levels intentionally to make sure your fish and other aquatic pets are comfortable. From simple solutions like adding multipurpose decor to more serious actions like installing a reverse osmosis filtration system, you can achieve the perfect pH level for your fish using our comprehensive guide.

Without a doubt, sharks are the proverbial bad boys of the deep. Their antics have been the focus of major motion pictures, week-long television specials, and classic Rat Pack songs. Although we’re all used to seeing these creatures lurking in big bodies of water, we’ve found a few species that fit your fish tank. Yes, believe it or not, you really can keep sharks at home. First, you’ll need to research and educate yourself on how to care for them. You’ll also need to make sure you have the proper tank to accommodate them. If you’re thinking of adding a shark to your tank, here are the ideal sharks for your home aquarium, as these breeds are small enough to fit.

Can I get a shark for my fish tank?

The best sharks for freshwater tanks

We’ll let you in on a little secret. Except for the bull shark, there is no such thing as a freshwater shark. Most freshwater fish labeled as sharks in pet stores have that name because they resemble sharks with their pointed dorsal fins and forked tails. Regardless, these “sharks” make colorful additions to aquariums for experienced hobbyists who are looking to expand their freshwater tanks.

Redtail sharks

Redtail sharks have black bodies with bright red tails and a white tip on the dorsal fin. They do best in aquariums of at least 55 gallons and have a lifespan of approximately six years. They are semi-aggressive fish that may set up territories in your tank. Although they do well with other fish, they will eat smaller fish when hungry. They can grow to a length of 6 inches and require a water temperature of 72 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit. Their best tank mates are other redtail sharks as well as similar-sized fish including barbs, danios, angelfish, and tetras.

Rainbow sharks

Rainbow sharks are also known as redfin sharks or ruby sharks. These semi-aggressive fish have bright red fins and make a colorful addition to your aquarium. They do best in aquariums of at least 55 gallons with a water temperature of 75 to 81 degrees Fahrenheit and grow to a length of 6 inches. As aquarium cleaners, they enjoy eating the algae that grows at the bottom of the tank. Good tankmates for rainbow sharks include gouramis, barbs, danios, and rainbowfish, which swim higher in the tank and won’t infringe on the rainbow shark’s territory. Their life span is five to eight years.

Bala sharks

Bala sharks have been described as “gentle giants” because they do well with many other species of fish, including rainbow fish, tetra, and rasbora. These yellow, black, and gray sharks like to travel in schools, so you’ll need to purchase several together if you decide to add them to your tank. Their highly active nature makes them fun to watch, although they appreciate a few good places to hide. Because of their size, they do best in a 120- to 150-gallon aquarium with a secure lid (they like to jump on occasion) where the water temperature is kept near 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Bala sharks can grow to measure 14 inches in length and live as long as 10 years.

The best sharks for saltwater tanks

A saltwater aquarium is where you find the true sharks, although most species are too large to live in a small hobby tank. The following sharks, small compared to their deep-water cousins, flourish best with expert hobbyists who are comfortable managing 180- to 350-gallon tanks.

White-spotted bamboo sharks

White-spotted bamboo sharks are smaller sharks popular with saltwater-tank enthusiasts. Although juveniles can begin their life in a smaller tank (30 to 55 gallons), they will quickly outgrow it and need to be moved to one of at least 180 gallons. They prefer hexagonal or circular tanks with a sandy bottom and plenty of rocks and other cave-like structures where they can hide. They coexist well with other species, such as grunts, snappers, jacks, and goatfish, and can live as long as 25 years. Males reach a length of 2.5 feet; females grow as long as 3.5 feet.

Cat sharks

Cat shark is the name of a large family of saltwater sharks, including banded cat sharks, marbled cat sharks, and bamboo sharks. While juveniles can live for a time in a 100-gallon tank, they need to move to at least a 350-gallon tank as they begin to grow. When properly cared for, cat sharks can live as long as 20 years and grow to a length of 4 feet. They require an open swimming space with rocks and driftwood for hiding along the edges of a sandy-bottom tank. Good tankmates for these aggressive bottom-dwellers include other cat sharks, stingrays, tangs, and harlequin tusks.

Epaulette sharks

Epaulette sharks have long, tan bodies with markings resembling an epaulette on their fins, which they often use to “walk” along the bottom of the tank as they search for food. Juveniles can live in a smaller 30- to 55-gallon aquarium initially, but they will eventually need to move to an aquarium of at least 180 gallons. These sharks can live as long as 25 years and grow to a length of 42 inches. As nocturnal creatures, they prefer a sandy bottom with plenty of hiding places to escape the bright aquarium lights. The water temperature in their tank should be kept at  72 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Good tankmates for epaulette sharks include small moray eels, groupers, and small stingrays.

Final thoughts on sharks for a home aquarium

Adding a shark to your aquarium, whether it’s a freshwater wannabe or saltwater bad boy, is a great way to create a bit of mystery and intrigue. The best choice is a shark that will coexist with your other fish and be able to live comfortably in the underwater environment you’ve created. And while these bottom feeders won’t be spoiling anybody’s boat ride, they will provide years of entertainment and conversation for the aficionado willing and able to give them the right care.

Want to know if you can keep seahorses in your home aquarium? Check out our guide.

Whether you’re taking in rescue tadpoles or planning to keep frogs as pets, you’ll have to adapt continually to their changing bodies. These amphibians undergo a metamorphosis and live as tadpoles for up to 14 weeks, though the last stage of the transition happens in just 24 hours.

You’ll put them to bed as a kid and come back to a teenager. Also, tadpoles are vegetarians, but frogs are carnivorous, so you should prepare for their diet to evolve as they do over the course of a few months. Here’s what to feed tadpoles.

What should you look into first

Be mindful that there are laws regulating amphibian ownership. You may need a permit to house these guys in your home in their child stage, adult stage, or both. Do your research fully to ensure you’re complying with local and state laws plus any regulations for your apartment or HOA.

Lastly, confirm with yourself and your family that you intend to commit for the long haul. Some frogs can live a decade, and you would have to keep them the whole time, plus the next generation, if you wind up with males and females.

How to care for tadpoles

Right off the bat, you need to make a couple of big decisions. Are you rescuing and releasing? Will your tadpoles live outdoors in a pond? Or do you intend to keep your animals when they become frogs?

While many tadpoles can live together when they hatch, an indoor tank will quickly become overcrowded with adult frogs. You’ll also need to update your tank’s decor as they morph. To start, tadpoles live entirely underwater and have gills like fish. In fact, most frog moms lay the eggs beneath the surface, so the entirety of the baby’s early life is spent submerged in your pool or tank.

As they begin the transition, everything about tadpole care changes. The key here is to look for those little back legs because that tells you the process has started and it’s time to think about making adjustments. Your froglet, an in-between stage in which they have both front and back legs but still have their tail, needs to spend some time out of water.

After the back legs have appeared, begin to add sticks and rocks or a small platform in anticipation of their lungs. Of course, their diet will need to adapt substantially as well. It can feel like every day they want something different to eat. Prepare for this by doing some meal prep as frog puberty sets in.

What to feed tadpoles

If you bring home eggs, you’ll be able to watch the entire frog-rearing cycle. Tiny tadpoles will hatch, and they’ll be extremely hungry. Luckily, their first food source is right there in the tank. They’ll eat their own eggs to start, which contain some vital nutrients that their little growing bodies need. Next, they will want to munch on veggies and pond plants. If you’re feeding them anything from the kitchen, make sure to boil it. We recommend you give them dinner every day or every other day.

As the tadpoles develop into adults, they become carnivorous and suddenly want to eat meat, mostly insects. When they’re about 6 weeks old, introduce a few bugs into mealtimes and see what happens. When you see fully formed front legs, it’s time to pause the feeding. It seems weird, but your blossoming frogs will actually eat their own tails (a little gross, but it works). When they finally emerge transformed, you’ll move entirely into frog foods. So, what can you feed your animals? Stick with these items.

Food for tadpoles:

• Algae
• Romaine lettuce
• Kale
• Cucumber (no seeds)
• Broccoli
• Carrot
• Commercial tadpole food

Food for frogs:

• Crickets
• Mealworms
• Grasshoppers
• Brine shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Commercial fish or frog food

What not to feed tadpoles

The smaller the tadpole, the more they need to rely on leafy greens and algae. As they develop, follow their cues to determine which snacks they’re ready for. However, you should stay away from some foods entirely because tadpoles can’t digest them.

• Never feed these amphibians commercial pet food made for another animal. Dog, cat, and even turtle kibble can be deadly for them.
• You also want to avoid sugary snacks like fruit or pumpkin, and always take out the seeds from any other squash you might give (small amounts of zucchini, for example, are OK). Unless it’s in the veggie drawer, it’s probably off-limits. Make sure all vegetables are fresh, too (no preservatives or butter allowed).
• Once they get to the bug-consuming stage, stick with feeder insects from the pet store. You don’t want to bring in any diseases from the backyard.
• Lastly, if your tadpoles don’t get enough calories, they may start to eat one another. You can separate them temporarily to get back to a healthy feeding schedule.

There are a few more things to keep in mind about your new tadpoles. First, mosquitoes love still aquariums and may use the water as a place to breed. If you keep your pets indoors, be mindful of insects. Change the water frequently to prevent pests and maintain your little guys’ health. After every feeding, remove any excess bits of lettuce or wafers (some ponds and tanks can handle growing algae, so leave that alone). Old food will rot and contaminate the enclosure. Check with a vet or specialist if you notice anything wrong with your new pets, like signs of disease or alarming digestive issues, especially after a change in sustenance.

By paying close attention to the signs of a dying hamster, you can be ready to step in as a pet parent and help them finish the end of their life well. Watch out for any of these symptoms, which should be accompanied by a visit to the vet, since they can have a few different causes.

Loss of appetite

Since you feed your hamster daily, you should notice quickly if they’ve cut back on eating. Pay particular attention if they turn their little nose up at treats that normally get gobbled down. While skipping snacks can certainly indicate that your hamster is nearing their last days, there are lots of other reasons they might miss meals, so don’t take this as an immediate indicator that they’ll soon be gone.

Slowing down

Most hamsters will play a lot — they’re known for riding that wheel all night. If you begin to see a precipitous decline in their activity level, it might mean old age has set in. Additionally, sometimes hamsters accidentally slip into hibernation if it gets too cold. While wild ones may need to do this yearly, your pet isn’t equipped to sleep for that long. Start by warming up their area to about 70 degrees Fahrenheit and contact their vet if they don’t wake up.

Health issues

You’ll want to monitor their hamster health every day and note anything concerning. A fever indicates that they might have an infection or other sickness. Rodents can also become dehydrated, which might show up as tightness or bunchiness in the skin. You can also usually tell when your hamster is coming down with something because they’ll become weak, tired, or sluggish.

Bathroom troubles

More specifically, diarrhea in hamsters can indicate a serious issue. Check when you clean the cage to ensure their digestion flows well. Sometimes your pet will experience vomiting or drooling, both of which mean you need to take action. Beware of wet tail, a deadly infection you can spot by checking the underside of their tail when handling your pet. If they have it, they’ll need to get to the vet right away to clear it up.

Skin problems

Your hamster will scratch occasionally, just like most mammals, but excessive picking can show you that something else is wrong. Look closely for spots, redness, or flaky skin when you examine him. A healthy animal will have a nice shiny coat. Take note if it goes dull or they lose patches of fur. In many cases, this could go away, but you’ll need to look into the underlying problem and soothe their skin with creams.

Cold symptoms

These pets often come down with the sniffles, and some of the signs look very familiar since they’re a lot like what you might experience when sick. A runny nose, watery eyes, and mucus are all indicators. A young hamster might easily recover from a cold, but an elderly pet may not get better.

Hiding too much

Most species of hamsters prefer to come out at night, so you don’t need to worry if they frequently hide during the day. However, a sudden change in behavior like hiding all the time could be a sign of a much larger issue such as acute stress, which can be deadly to your little pet. 

Is my hamster dying or just hibernating?

Even by paying close attention to the signs, nothing will quite prepare you for finding your hamster unresponsive. However, you need to take a better look because sometimes a still hamster is actually hibernating. So you should confirm that your little guy has passed. To do this, first gently stroke their fur and check for any reactive movement, especially a twitch in the whiskers. If your pet doesn’t react, next hold a spoon or mirror up to their tiny nose and look for the telltale signs of breath. Lastly, check the environment to make sure you haven’t accidentally created hibernation conditions and adjust as necessary. For example, if the cage area got really cold over night, turn up the heat and see if your hamster revived.

Generally, you can trust your instincts when it comes to your pet. Anything out of the ordinary might warrant a trip to the vet to figure out what’s wrong. In some cases, a little medicine or a change of environment takes care of it. But if your little pet is ready for the happy hamster grounds, you should focus on keeping them pain-free with medicine, warm with blankets, and comfortable with your presence.

What’s better than one pet rabbit? An entire litter of bunnies (as long as you’re prepared for them, of course). If you’ve been wondering, “Is my rabbit pregnant?” now is the time to find out for sure. After all, you don’t want to be caught unaware and suddenly have a whole new colony of animals in your hutch.

Sometimes, lady bunnies can take on the behaviors of expectant mamas, but it’s actually a false pregnancy. The best way to find out if your rabbit is pregnant is to take her to the vet and have them confirm it. However, when you’re figuring it out yourself, you should look for the signs that a rabbit is pregnant. If you spot these behaviors, be sure to call your animal doctor.

She’s recently been with an intact male

It’s certainly one of the most obvious pregnant rabbit signs, but the bunny gestation period is surprisingly short. The babies will remain in utero only for about a month before the mother gives birth, so if she hasn’t been near a mate in that time, she’s probably not pregnant. When you see pregnancy symptoms and she’s not carrying offspring, take her to the vet to find out what else might be the issue. If she is carrying a litter, your vet might do an ultrasound to check that everything’s going well. 

Your rabbit’s gaining weight

Just like with humans and other mammals, your little animal will get bigger when she’s expecting. However, it may be tricky to notice a difference with the naked eye. Take your doe’s weight before pregnancy (but after she’s reached sexual maturity) and weigh her each week after she’s been bred. She might gain only a few ounces, but a digital scale will track her increase. For consistency, always weigh her before feeding. If you discover she’s pregnant, increase her daily food intake, especially the alfalfa, as she needs more nutrients during this time.

You feel her babies

Surprisingly, you’ll be able to feel the tiny creatures on the way by stroking her belly. You’ll notice these pea-sized infants at around 10 days. Be careful with them, though, as pushing too hard can hurt the not-fully-formed bunnies. After two weeks, you shouldn’t try this at all, and a vet will always be your safest bet if you don’t have much experience handling pregnant rabbits.

Her mood changes

Your seemingly loving rabbit suddenly doesn’t like you. Did you do something wrong? Probably not. If she’s pregnant, she may become aggressive, even growling at you and her friends. Be extra careful around her during this time as moms sometimes bite and often don’t want to be handled. It’s best to give her space for now. She’ll be back to normal soon enough. While moodiness isn’t a clear sign on its own to prove that she’s bringing you little ones, coupled with other factors, it can indicate that her due date is approaching.

She starts nesting

One of the most obvious signs before a rabbit gives birth is nesting. The mom-to-be will begin to create her roost about a week before she gives birth, which can help you set a timeline if you weren’t quite sure when she conceived. Your rabbit will stack bedding into a corner or dig to make a small den. If there isn’t sufficient material to suit her, she might even rip out her own hair to enlarge the nest and make a blanket for her bunnies. This means that your new pets will be here any day now.

Give her plenty of hay to finish her building and a box to help her along. You’ll want to begin to monitor her for signs of labor at about 28 days, though 31 is typical. If it’s been more than 35 days, she needs to be induced by a specialist.

Can you touch a pregnant rabbit?

In addition to becoming aggressive, rabbits tend to shy away from others toward the end of their pregnancies. It might seem like a hard time to stay away, but mama bunnies know exactly how to do this on their own. Let her have space for her birth and then check on the newborns when she’s done. While you’re at it, try to give her a hutch to herself for the home stretch — she doesn’t want the company of her own kind either. The most important part is to reduce her stress (and temptation to turn mean) during this time. One option: Put up a camera in an out-of-the-way spot where it won’t bug her, but allows you to keep an eye on both mom and the babies.

When you finally do enter the mother’s house, you could find up to 15 babies, as rabbit litters can be quite large. We hope all the babies make it, but you should remove any kits that don’t survive. Then retreat while she nurses and bonds with her new family. Keep her away from mates for a while so you don’t have too many little guys at once, and spay or neuter when you’re ready to stop breeding. 

No matter how talented an aquarist or fish parent you are, you’ll probably run into cloudy aquarium water at some point. Maybe your filter breaks unexpectedly or one of your fish has tummy problems, and you wind up with a tank so murky you can’t see through it.

If you walk in to feed your fish and stumble on cloudy aquarium water, don’t panic. While a good tank cleaning will probably be necessary, it’s even more important to discover the underlying problem. We’re here to show you how to clear cloudy aquarium water and keep your fish safe from filth.

What does the color of my aquarium water tell me?

The first step: Figure out what’s wrong with your water, which means determining what color it is. This will give you more information than you think, as the shade will often hint at the deeper cause. You don’t need to hold up a paint-matching card or anything, but see if you can identify the hue. Would you describe it as more white, green, or brown? Each of these discolorations stems from something different and indicates a separate issue. Then tackle the problem by getting to the source.

Why is my fish tank water cloudy white?

Surprisingly enough, white aquarium water often means to leave it alone. Yup, this tint sometimes tells you that your tank needs to stabilize. In fact, too many water changes can actually spark cloudy water, which is frequently the result of a bacteria bloom. The good news is that as the tank cycles through, the bacteria and other dissolved nutrients will find a balance and the cloudiness will clear.

However, white water sometimes comes from other issues. To find out, test your tank and see if the chemicals and nutrients are out of whack. In that case, a conditioner can straighten out the problem. The one exception: If you recently put in new gravel and the water gets cloudy instantly, you didn’t rinse the stones enough. You’ll probably have to pull everything out and give it a good cleaning before returning it — and, of course, change the water again.

Where did all the green come from in my fish aquarium?

This one’s usually pretty easy to figure out. Most of the time, when your aquarium water is green, you’ll see an abundance of algae. Unfortunately, the tricky part isn’t getting it off but keeping it from coming back. When your algae is blooming, it means something else in your fish’s home is not quite right.

First, try adjusting the lighting. Like all plants, algae lives on sunlight, and your tank lamp or natural sunlight exposure could be encouraging the green water. You also need to run your full testing kit right away, since algae growth could indicate that your nitrate or other levels have gotten off. If your tests consistently come back out of range, make sure your tank is clean enough and that you’ve removed any dead plants or animals.

What does yellow water mean for the fish in my tank?

Yellow water gives the easiest diagnosis: Your tank is dirty. If your water looks yellowish or brownish, your filter is probably not up to snuff. First, do a thorough clean of the tank, including removing items like gravel and accessories for a scrubbing. Then, take apart the filter and examine it carefully. Some models have replaceable pieces that easily swap in and out.

Otherwise, you may need to invest in a new one — and don’t forget that adding fish might mean you need a more powerful system. Keep in mind, too, that no amount of filtration will make up for an overcrowded tank. Think about an upgrade to make more space, especially if your fish have grown or recently had babies who now have precious little room to swim.

Why is my aquarium cloudy and won’t clear?

No matter the color (or the underlying conditions), you will almost always want to do three things to clear up your water:

• Run a water test
• Check your filtration system
• Do a partial water change or maintenance clean

If you’ve gone through these steps and nothing seems to work, you’ll have to dig into your tank issues a little deeper. First, take a look at your own behaviors, especially how much food you provide during meals. You shouldn’t see any extra flakes floating around long after your fish have finished their meal. Next, pay even more attention to your swimmers and their habits, including the bathroom ones. Last, reach out to an expert, either by calling up your local store or posting pics to a forum.

Diagnosing your aquarium issue isn’t rocket science. With a few glances at the dirty aquarium and a couple of testing kits, you’ll get it back to beautiful clear water in no time. Bear in mind, many tank problems are invisible and don’t affect water color or clarity, so check your pH and nutrient levels frequently, even if everything looks good to the naked eye. Aquarium health means fish health, and keeping their home tidy will go a long way toward keeping them happy.

It starts out with a group of four birds, two green and two yellow who somehow know their teammates and how to play. In fact, Noris Buzdugan commented, “Bro they even have matching teams,” which certainly adds to the flavor of the game. There’s no need for jerseys when you can determine your teammates just by the color of their feathers. The happy birds run back and forth, put the ball through the hoops, and play tug with their opponent. After the basketball game finishes, they squeeze a quick version of volleyball in, tossing the little ball over a net. While the human viewers seem delighted, it’s nothing compared to how happy and proud the birds look (we’re still not sure who won though).

Viewers were entranced by the clever birds and many cheered them on in the comments. General Žare decided that we really need to rename the sports association: “NBA: National Bird Association.” This could surely take off. Scrolling asked the question that we were all wondering: How does one teach this to them? Many others questioned the rules of this sport with johntapley73 remarking, “Come on ref, travelling violation surely? wth! I had big money on this game.” Lastly, mettdredhme took this a step further and suggested we all get in on it, “How can we bet? looks safer than football.”

How do you teach birds games?

We love to teach our animals tricks, and birds pick up a lot of these games quickly and happily. Many seem to enjoy learning new things and showing off. In order to get your pet to this level though, you have to start small. The goal is to begin their bird training from a young age and keep it up with daily practice sessions. To start, you might not even use a ball, since you want your bird to learn things like perching on your finger (roughly the avian equivalent of teaching a dog to sit). Then introduce toys — fetch, catch, and throw will become the basics for your sport. Eventually, your animal might be able to graduate to impressive moves like dodging and dunking, but it’s also fun to watch what they come up with themselves. Since birds are smart and social, they’ll design their own games if given the tools.