Whether you’re taking in rescue tadpoles or planning to keep frogs as pets, you’ll have to adapt continually to their changing bodies. These amphibians undergo a metamorphosis and live as tadpoles for up to 14 weeks, though the last stage of the transition happens in just 24 hours.

You’ll put them to bed as a kid and come back to a teenager. Also, tadpoles are vegetarians, but frogs are carnivorous, so you should prepare for their diet to evolve as they do over the course of a few months. Here’s what to feed tadpoles.

What should you look into first

Be mindful that there are laws regulating amphibian ownership. You may need a permit to house these guys in your home in their child stage, adult stage, or both. Do your research fully to ensure you’re complying with local and state laws plus any regulations for your apartment or HOA.

Lastly, confirm with yourself and your family that you intend to commit for the long haul. Some frogs can live a decade, and you would have to keep them the whole time, plus the next generation, if you wind up with males and females.

How to care for tadpoles

Right off the bat, you need to make a couple of big decisions. Are you rescuing and releasing? Will your tadpoles live outdoors in a pond? Or do you intend to keep your animals when they become frogs?

While many tadpoles can live together when they hatch, an indoor tank will quickly become overcrowded with adult frogs. You’ll also need to update your tank’s decor as they morph. To start, tadpoles live entirely underwater and have gills like fish. In fact, most frog moms lay the eggs beneath the surface, so the entirety of the baby’s early life is spent submerged in your pool or tank.

As they begin the transition, everything about tadpole care changes. The key here is to look for those little back legs because that tells you the process has started and it’s time to think about making adjustments. Your froglet, an in-between stage in which they have both front and back legs but still have their tail, needs to spend some time out of water.

After the back legs have appeared, begin to add sticks and rocks or a small platform in anticipation of their lungs. Of course, their diet will need to adapt substantially as well. It can feel like every day they want something different to eat. Prepare for this by doing some meal prep as frog puberty sets in.

What to feed tadpoles

If you bring home eggs, you’ll be able to watch the entire frog-rearing cycle. Tiny tadpoles will hatch, and they’ll be extremely hungry. Luckily, their first food source is right there in the tank. They’ll eat their own eggs to start, which contain some vital nutrients that their little growing bodies need. Next, they will want to munch on veggies and pond plants. If you’re feeding them anything from the kitchen, make sure to boil it. We recommend you give them dinner every day or every other day.

As the tadpoles develop into adults, they become carnivorous and suddenly want to eat meat, mostly insects. When they’re about 6 weeks old, introduce a few bugs into mealtimes and see what happens. When you see fully formed front legs, it’s time to pause the feeding. It seems weird, but your blossoming frogs will actually eat their own tails (a little gross, but it works). When they finally emerge transformed, you’ll move entirely into frog foods. So, what can you feed your animals? Stick with these items.

Food for tadpoles:

• Algae
• Romaine lettuce
• Kale
• Cucumber (no seeds)
• Broccoli
• Carrot
• Commercial tadpole food

Food for frogs:

• Crickets
• Mealworms
• Grasshoppers
• Brine shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Commercial fish or frog food

What not to feed tadpoles

The smaller the tadpole, the more they need to rely on leafy greens and algae. As they develop, follow their cues to determine which snacks they’re ready for. However, you should stay away from some foods entirely because tadpoles can’t digest them.

• Never feed these amphibians commercial pet food made for another animal. Dog, cat, and even turtle kibble can be deadly for them.
• You also want to avoid sugary snacks like fruit or pumpkin, and always take out the seeds from any other squash you might give (small amounts of zucchini, for example, are OK). Unless it’s in the veggie drawer, it’s probably off-limits. Make sure all vegetables are fresh, too (no preservatives or butter allowed).
• Once they get to the bug-consuming stage, stick with feeder insects from the pet store. You don’t want to bring in any diseases from the backyard.
• Lastly, if your tadpoles don’t get enough calories, they may start to eat one another. You can separate them temporarily to get back to a healthy feeding schedule.

There are a few more things to keep in mind about your new tadpoles. First, mosquitoes love still aquariums and may use the water as a place to breed. If you keep your pets indoors, be mindful of insects. Change the water frequently to prevent pests and maintain your little guys’ health. After every feeding, remove any excess bits of lettuce or wafers (some ponds and tanks can handle growing algae, so leave that alone). Old food will rot and contaminate the enclosure. Check with a vet or specialist if you notice anything wrong with your new pets, like signs of disease or alarming digestive issues, especially after a change in sustenance.

By paying close attention to the signs of a dying hamster, you can be ready to step in as a pet parent and help them finish the end of their life well. Watch out for any of these symptoms, which should be accompanied by a visit to the vet, since they can have a few different causes.

Loss of appetite

Since you feed your hamster daily, you should notice quickly if they’ve cut back on eating. Pay particular attention if they turn their little nose up at treats that normally get gobbled down. While skipping snacks can certainly indicate that your hamster is nearing their last days, there are lots of other reasons they might miss meals, so don’t take this as an immediate indicator that they’ll soon be gone.

Slowing down

Most hamsters will play a lot — they’re known for riding that wheel all night. If you begin to see a precipitous decline in their activity level, it might mean old age has set in. Additionally, sometimes hamsters accidentally slip into hibernation if it gets too cold. While wild ones may need to do this yearly, your pet isn’t equipped to sleep for that long. Start by warming up their area to about 70 degrees Fahrenheit and contact their vet if they don’t wake up.

Health issues

You’ll want to monitor their hamster health every day and note anything concerning. A fever indicates that they might have an infection or other sickness. Rodents can also become dehydrated, which might show up as tightness or bunchiness in the skin. You can also usually tell when your hamster is coming down with something because they’ll become weak, tired, or sluggish.

Bathroom troubles

More specifically, diarrhea in hamsters can indicate a serious issue. Check when you clean the cage to ensure their digestion flows well. Sometimes your pet will experience vomiting or drooling, both of which mean you need to take action. Beware of wet tail, a deadly infection you can spot by checking the underside of their tail when handling your pet. If they have it, they’ll need to get to the vet right away to clear it up.

Skin problems

Your hamster will scratch occasionally, just like most mammals, but excessive picking can show you that something else is wrong. Look closely for spots, redness, or flaky skin when you examine him. A healthy animal will have a nice shiny coat. Take note if it goes dull or they lose patches of fur. In many cases, this could go away, but you’ll need to look into the underlying problem and soothe their skin with creams.

Cold symptoms

These pets often come down with the sniffles, and some of the signs look very familiar since they’re a lot like what you might experience when sick. A runny nose, watery eyes, and mucus are all indicators. A young hamster might easily recover from a cold, but an elderly pet may not get better.

Hiding too much

Most species of hamsters prefer to come out at night, so you don’t need to worry if they frequently hide during the day. However, a sudden change in behavior like hiding all the time could be a sign of a much larger issue such as acute stress, which can be deadly to your little pet. 

Is my hamster dying or just hibernating?

Even by paying close attention to the signs, nothing will quite prepare you for finding your hamster unresponsive. However, you need to take a better look because sometimes a still hamster is actually hibernating. So you should confirm that your little guy has passed. To do this, first gently stroke their fur and check for any reactive movement, especially a twitch in the whiskers. If your pet doesn’t react, next hold a spoon or mirror up to their tiny nose and look for the telltale signs of breath. Lastly, check the environment to make sure you haven’t accidentally created hibernation conditions and adjust as necessary. For example, if the cage area got really cold over night, turn up the heat and see if your hamster revived.

Generally, you can trust your instincts when it comes to your pet. Anything out of the ordinary might warrant a trip to the vet to figure out what’s wrong. In some cases, a little medicine or a change of environment takes care of it. But if your little pet is ready for the happy hamster grounds, you should focus on keeping them pain-free with medicine, warm with blankets, and comfortable with your presence.

What’s better than one pet rabbit? An entire litter of bunnies (as long as you’re prepared for them, of course). If you’ve been wondering, “Is my rabbit pregnant?” now is the time to find out for sure. After all, you don’t want to be caught unaware and suddenly have a whole new colony of animals in your hutch.

Sometimes, lady bunnies can take on the behaviors of expectant mamas, but it’s actually a false pregnancy. The best way to find out if your rabbit is pregnant is to take her to the vet and have them confirm it. However, when you’re figuring it out yourself, you should look for the signs that a rabbit is pregnant. If you spot these behaviors, be sure to call your animal doctor.

She’s recently been with an intact male

It’s certainly one of the most obvious pregnant rabbit signs, but the bunny gestation period is surprisingly short. The babies will remain in utero only for about a month before the mother gives birth, so if she hasn’t been near a mate in that time, she’s probably not pregnant. When you see pregnancy symptoms and she’s not carrying offspring, take her to the vet to find out what else might be the issue. If she is carrying a litter, your vet might do an ultrasound to check that everything’s going well. 

Your rabbit’s gaining weight

Just like with humans and other mammals, your little animal will get bigger when she’s expecting. However, it may be tricky to notice a difference with the naked eye. Take your doe’s weight before pregnancy (but after she’s reached sexual maturity) and weigh her each week after she’s been bred. She might gain only a few ounces, but a digital scale will track her increase. For consistency, always weigh her before feeding. If you discover she’s pregnant, increase her daily food intake, especially the alfalfa, as she needs more nutrients during this time.

You feel her babies

Surprisingly, you’ll be able to feel the tiny creatures on the way by stroking her belly. You’ll notice these pea-sized infants at around 10 days. Be careful with them, though, as pushing too hard can hurt the not-fully-formed bunnies. After two weeks, you shouldn’t try this at all, and a vet will always be your safest bet if you don’t have much experience handling pregnant rabbits.

Her mood changes

Your seemingly loving rabbit suddenly doesn’t like you. Did you do something wrong? Probably not. If she’s pregnant, she may become aggressive, even growling at you and her friends. Be extra careful around her during this time as moms sometimes bite and often don’t want to be handled. It’s best to give her space for now. She’ll be back to normal soon enough. While moodiness isn’t a clear sign on its own to prove that she’s bringing you little ones, coupled with other factors, it can indicate that her due date is approaching.

She starts nesting

One of the most obvious signs before a rabbit gives birth is nesting. The mom-to-be will begin to create her roost about a week before she gives birth, which can help you set a timeline if you weren’t quite sure when she conceived. Your rabbit will stack bedding into a corner or dig to make a small den. If there isn’t sufficient material to suit her, she might even rip out her own hair to enlarge the nest and make a blanket for her bunnies. This means that your new pets will be here any day now.

Give her plenty of hay to finish her building and a box to help her along. You’ll want to begin to monitor her for signs of labor at about 28 days, though 31 is typical. If it’s been more than 35 days, she needs to be induced by a specialist.

Can you touch a pregnant rabbit?

In addition to becoming aggressive, rabbits tend to shy away from others toward the end of their pregnancies. It might seem like a hard time to stay away, but mama bunnies know exactly how to do this on their own. Let her have space for her birth and then check on the newborns when she’s done. While you’re at it, try to give her a hutch to herself for the home stretch — she doesn’t want the company of her own kind either. The most important part is to reduce her stress (and temptation to turn mean) during this time. One option: Put up a camera in an out-of-the-way spot where it won’t bug her, but allows you to keep an eye on both mom and the babies.

When you finally do enter the mother’s house, you could find up to 15 babies, as rabbit litters can be quite large. We hope all the babies make it, but you should remove any kits that don’t survive. Then retreat while she nurses and bonds with her new family. Keep her away from mates for a while so you don’t have too many little guys at once, and spay or neuter when you’re ready to stop breeding. 

Choosing a small pet involves almost as much deliberation as selecting a breed of dog. While there are a lot of factors to take into account, a sugar glider might turn out to be the perfect fit with their curious personality, attachment to your family, and fondness for pockets.

Like any exotic pet, gliders require expert care plus some dedicated research to choose the right breeder or pet store. But with the right prep, your new mammal will fit in perfectly and bond with the whole family. Keep reading to find out if sugar gliders are good pets.

What are sugar gliders?

Unlike most little pets, sugar gliders aren’t rodents but marsupials. This gives you a few distinct advantages, as they behave differently from hamsters, guinea pigs, or gerbils. For starters, these are highly social creatures and they will bond with every member of the family and even other pets in the house. Because gliders don’t smell like the animals your cats and dogs like to chase — rats, gophers, and bunnies, to name a few — many bigger pets can get along with your new friend. You’ll need to introduce them carefully, but they can form lifelong attachments to each other.

Many owners recommend getting a pair or a small family, so they can keep each other company, especially at night when they like to play (and you like to sleep). Also, some people with allergies find they coexist just fine with this mini marsupial, unlike with other pets that might trigger sneezes. Best of all, sugar gliders live up to 15 years! You’ll have your furry friend for a long time.

How do they act?

Because your new best bud will bond with everyone in the household, you’ll need to spend a lot of time handling and playing with them. The good news is they will love just sleeping the day away in your pocket or bag — really anywhere they can feel like they are close to you.

Remember, these little buggers from Down Under are nocturnal, which means they’re energetic at night. You’ll probably want to maintain their enclosure outside of any bedrooms. Since they also need room to move, it’s best to give them a large space. Select an area of the house equipped for a big cage. Be careful if you’re keeping a few males together as they can become territorial, and you don’t want them fighting or marking their territory (ew).

Who can own a glider?

Many places in the U.S. require a permit and some prohibit keeping them as pets entirely. You’ll need to carefully look into all laws and restrictions — even your homeowner’s association or similar might have rules about these unusual animals. On the state level, Alaska, California, and Hawaii have all banned sugar gliders (and some other exotic pets).

When picking out your new fuzzball, you must diligently research breeders, too. First, make sure they’re licensed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, but that’s just the beginning. Look at where the gliders were kept as babies and make sure the parents and littles look healthy. Never take a young one away from their mom under 12 weeks. If you want to go the extra mile, find a homeless animal nearby to adopt. Since they live for over a decade, you can take in an older pet and still have a long time together. If you’re extra mindful of bonding, your glider will adapt in no time.

How do you take care of one?

Sugar glider care is complex, and you should consider whether you’re up to the task before bringing him home.

Research local vets

Not every animal doctor will accept an exotic pet like this, so you’ll need to find someone in your area who does. However, marsupials don’t catch the same diseases as cats or dogs and should require fewer checkups if everything’s going well.

Buy materials

The cage and sugar glider nourishment will both go on this list (more on those later). In addition to the usuals, you will also need bedding, cleaning supplies, plus a food and water bowl.

Get the right food

Because the sugar glider likes to sleep during the day, their biggest feeding time happens in the evening. They love to snack on fruit, but protein needs to be the staple of their diet. Specially designed food from the pet store will nourish them well, though you can try feeding them bugs, too, which they heartily enjoy.

Set up their cage

As the name suggests, these critters can jump from branch to branch in the wild or from branch to your hand in captivity, so you should add many perches to keep them entertained. They also have to work to stay warm since their ancestors came from tropical forests. Include a heating source in the housing, especially if they sleep there at night when temperatures drop.

Accessorize

Just providing your pet with the basics won’t lead to a fulfilling life. You want to add a nest, whether a box or hammock. On top of that, look into toys, either for gliders specifically or toys for birds, which are often of interest.

While not right for everyone, a sugar glider might perfectly complete your family. Many owners find carrying them around becomes second nature, and lots of these pets travel really well because of it. If you research thoroughly and train them carefully, you’ll have a friend constantly by your side.

We generally don’t recommend impulse purchases when it comes to animals, but if you find yourself walking away from a shelter or pet store with Peter Rabbit in hand, you’ll need to brush up quickly. It takes a lot: housing, food, cleaning, playtime, grooming, and vet bills. Understanding each piece of the puzzle will allow you to flourish as a pet parent and help your four-legger to live their best life, too. Keep reading to learn more about owning a bunny.

What are the best structures and enclosures for bunnies?

You have multiple options when it comes to your bunny house, and lots of choices to make, starting with the location of the cage itself. First, you need to figure out if he’ll be an indoor bunny, an outdoor bunny, or a mix of both. Only very select climates can support a completely outside existence, and you will always have to worry about predators and other natural hazards. Really, you should lean toward an inside habitat, with some scheduled and closely monitored recess built in.

Once you’ve selected the environment and specific area inside your house, you’ll need to buy a hutch to fit. Make sure your rabbit has plenty of room to roam around, which means try to get a 36-by-36-inch cage at least. A multistory one will make it even better, plus you can throw in toys and accessories. Don’t forget that you will likely want to include a litter area in there and be sure it’s as separated as possible from the food and play area. Speaking of which, you’ll have to wipe down the hutch daily for spot cleaning and a deep scrub about once per week, though if your animal successfully uses the litter, there will be a lot less to pick up from his main area.

What should my bunny eat?

While rabbit pellets exist for good reason, you really don’t want them to make up the majority of your bunny’s diet. Instead, hay will serve as the staple both for nutritional value and to help keep those teeth at bay (they never stop growing and will quickly get out of hand otherwise).

On top of that, you’ll want to add treats, which can take the form of veggies and leafy greens. While carrots look good on TV, they cannot become a daily snack. Instead, the main veggies should be broccoli greens and bok choy or other dark green leaves. Lastly, keep the drinking water flowing, and change it very frequently, daily at least.

How do I care for my rabbit?

Let’s cover vet bills really quick-like. When you pick up that sweet baby bunny from the pet store, they’ll need to go to the vet right away, just as you would with a dog or cat. From there, you’re looking at every six months to a year, depending on age, and bunnies live about a decade. Watch out for dental and digestive issues, both of which plague rabbits and their owners. Also, if you have multiples, you may ask your vet about getting them fixed or you will get more rabbits than you bargained for.

In addition, you must provide plenty of enrichment and exercise. Contrary to popular opinion, these little hoppers are smart and need plenty of time to play or interact with you and their toys. Lots of owners set up a larger pen to allow them some extra hopping time (fully supervised, of course). One note: most rabbits do not enjoy being picked up, so try to find other ways to interact with them.

As for washing your new fur baby, you’ll be glad to know that bunnies efficiently clean themselves but need a little help from you. Don’t try to give your bunny a bath, but rather rely on safe, low-stress spot cleaning, plus brushing once a week to keep that soft coat in good shape.

Final thoughts on adopting a rabbit

Every pet is a commitment, and sometimes people dive into bunny ownership, thinking it will be along the lines of a hamster or guinea pig. It really isn’t and could be better compared to a bigger pet, like a cat. Dedicate time for feeding, grooming, cage cleaning, and, of course, playing games every week so that your little bunny thrives in its new environment. Lastly, a companion will go a long way toward keeping that big brain occupied, and you’ll have a picture-perfect set of cuties to take pics in time for Easter.

What are corydoras?

This is a type of catfish, but there are actually more than 170 species to choose from. These are a well-known group of swimmers who get their name from their barbels, which look a bit like whiskers. While you’ll find dozens of options in the pet store, you will likely narrow it down quickly based on the size of your tank, temperature, habitat you’ve chosen, and the other fish that they’ll live with eventually.

Are corydoras friendly?

Yes, corydoras are sweet and gentle fish. They particularly like spending time together, but get along with many others as well. In some cases, you should not buy just one as they’ll get lonely. Instead grab a pair of the same type and watch them become best friends. You’ll often see them as bottom feeders, well, at the base of the tank, but cory cats also come up to the surface for air or food from time to time.

How do you care for cory catfish?

These guys work well as entry-level catfish, but they still need you to take good care of them. Like all fish, they have a few specific wants unique to their species.

Water requirements

You need clean water for these catfish, though that will remain true for most fish. Also note that they prefer a slightly cooler temperature than some others, around 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Only place a corydora in a housing where you can ensure these conditions will be met.

Favorite foods

While they’ll absolutely eat the leftovers, cories need their own food, too. Include bottom-feeder tabs as part of your standard feeding so they get enough. Don’t forget that you also should not put off any type of standard cleaning even though you have a helper in the ring.

Tank needs

One important note, because they eat off the floor, it’s important to include extra substrate in your tank — a few inches. Cories can act a bit shy as well, meaning you want plenty of hiding opportunities in there. Live plants are their favorite, so if that’s at all an option, consider adding them to the decor.

The last thing you need to know about these fun fish, they live a long time. Cory catfish often make it to five years or even longer. It’s important to bring home these pets knowing that you’re signing up for this commitment since other species often live just a couple years at most. They’ll get to meet a lot of other friends as they come and go, but you’ll always be there for your cory cat.

Oral health can also indicate bigger issues, which means you should keep a close eye on those pearly whites when you hear your pet grind, chatter, bare, or click them. So why do guinea pigs chatter their teeth? There are a few reasons, but none of them are particularly good.

What sounds do guinea pigs make with their teeth?

Guinea pigs make more than 10 different noises, including wheeking and chirping. Each signals something unique, so pay close attention to exactly what your animal does and says.  Your pet will use their teeth to show you they’re frustrated or hurt with three special sounds. Here’s how to tell them apart. 

Hissing

You may hear a hiss-like noise come from your cavy, just like a cat, and it says something similar too. Usually, this means “leave me alone” or “I’m annoyed.” Treat it as a sign to give your pet a little space. They could be sick of playing but have no other way to communicate those frustrations (unfortunately, they likely won’t come out and tell you plainly). Don’t go away forever though — these little guys have short memories and they’ll want you back at their side in no time. But do take it as a serious sign of discomfort. In fact, sometimes the hiss precedes a bite, so try to get yourself clear quickly before they make a lunge for you.

Grinding

Persistent teeth grinding typically has a physical cause rather than an emotional one, and a trip to the vet may be in order. Sometimes guineas grind their teeth when in pain, just as you might grit yours when ripping off a Band-Aid. As prey animals, they’re designed to hide injury and illness, so a small sign like this could be all you get to determine that something is up. Alternatively, it might be the teeth themselves that are causing the issue.

Remember, many small pets have fangs that never stop growing and frequently need attention. Have your animal doctor do a full dental workup to spot any issues quickly and correct them in time. If that’s not the problem, the grinding likely signals frustration, similar to the hiss.

Chattering

You will most commonly see this sign when you introduce a new pet into the home and your original inhabitant feels the need to show a display of dominance. Unfortunately, a fight might be brewing, and you should separate the pair while they both calm down, then try again. Always carefully add a new member to the group with lots of check-ins along the way. If no new piggies have joined and yours distinctly makes this noise, you might be the problem (don’t take it personally). Typically, you’ll want to back off and return your guinea pig to the cage, though sometimes you’ll get a teeth-chatter when you’re in the middle of something annoying yet essential, such as grooming.

Lastly, if you have any brand-new babies in the house, Mama will definitely bare and chatter her teeth at you — wouldn’t you if a giant predator approached? Steer clear when she does. Trust us, she means business.

Final thoughts on teeth chattering

While teeth chattering certainly can mean that your guinea pig needs a vet, not all dental communication is equal. Try to figure out first which of the three mouth noises she’s making and what it might be in response to. Oftentimes, you’ll notice pretty quickly what’s upsetting your piggy just by looking at their surroundings and stimuli. Even if no chattering occurs, you need to consistently check their teeth and provide extra hay so they can naturally grind them down to the proper size.

Hay will head off most mouth issues at the pass. Lastly, if you hear constant teeth chattering and fighting between two specific animals, it could be time to separate them. Think about setting up different cage spaces for the instigators so no one gets hurt — and you get some peace and quiet.